A toast to moderation — what science says about wine, and why cider may be a delicious lighter drink.

We were pouring wine recently when a woman told us she isn’t drinking these days.

“For health reasons,” she explained. And then she wandered off — to enjoy some chocolate, which she evidently regarded as a health food. Now we like chocolate, too. But that made us smile.

Wine has taken a reputational hit in recent years, even though wine has been with us for millennia — long before refined sugar became a dietary staple. With alarming headlines about health risks, what does the evidence say?

First, there’s no dispute about heavy drinking. It increases risks across the board. The debate really concerns moderate drinking -- and what “moderate” actually means.

It’s more complicated than is often appreciated. Unlike smoking, where any amount increases risk, alcohol appears to follow what researchers call a J-curve: moderate consumption actually appears to lower health risks by reducing heart attacks, but then after some threshold above one drink per day, risks rise well past the original baseline.

Sodas and other sugary drinks are a definite no-no, while alcohol is a “maybe,” is how a Harvard report put it. Here’s a comparison via Dr. Laura Catena, a physician vintner:

The most comprehensive review came from the National Academies of Sciences, Engineering and Medicine, which convened leading researchers from Harvard, Stanford, Cornell, and other institutions. Their conclusion: alcohol increases the risk of certain cancers but reduces cardiovascular disease. Because heart disease is such a common cause of death, the overall effect at moderate levels appears to reduce all-cause mortality. If you want to study the issue in more detail, we strongly recommend that 228-page report.

“What we know is that people that drink about a half a drink to a drink a day live the longest,” because the lower risk of heart attacks outweighs a slightly elevated risk of certain cancers, says Eric Rimm, a Harvard professor of medicine and epidemiology who has studied the issue.

There are caveats. Randomized controlled trials are nearly impossible in this area. And moderate drinking can slide into heavy drinking. But the most rigorous research suggests that while moderate drinking raises some risks and lowers others, the panic about alcohol is overblown. On balance it seems to add to lifespan — as long as it stays moderate.

Then there’s something harder to measure: joy and friendship. Wine has been a social companion for many thousands of years. It’s part of meals, conversations, celebrations, and community. That matters too. And while it’s harder to measure, it’s not impossible. What research exists indicates that wine drinking is associated with more friends and supportive social networks, pushing back against social isolation and depression.

Still, we’re not here to prescribe what anyone should drink. If you want to drink a Coke, that’s okay, too, but remember that Pinot Noir seems a healthier option! And there’s clearly demand for lower-alcohol options, though the challenge is that low-alcohol wines mostly taste dreadful. But there is a naturally lower-alcohol alternative that is delicious: It’s called cider.

Cider typically has about 7% alcohol, roughly half that of wine. And elegant cider isn’t a downgrade. It’s sophisticated, structured, and nuanced, made from varieties of apples intended for cider, blessed with tannins, complex acids and layered flavor.

Our dry Orchard Cider blends about a dozen heirloom varieties. We also produce a semi-sweet Reserve Cider, and (when it isn’t sold out) a co-ferment with Pinot Noir skins called Noir. All are bottled in 750ml formats, like fine wine.

If you want to go even lower with ABV, our canned Whisper cider clocks in at just over 4% alcohol -- and has won awards in national competitions. (We’re also honored that two of our ciders, Orchard and Reserve, were selected finalists for America’s Good Food Awards: we’re the only cidery to have more than one finalist.)

So no, we’re not counseling anyone. But if you’re looking for a lower-alcohol alternative to spirits or Cabernet, you don’t have to settle for diminished wine. Try Kristof Farms cider! Or join our cider club.

We’re going to have tours and tastings on the farm on March 14! As you may know, we don’t often open up the farm to tastings, but we will on March 14 at 1:30 p.m. and 2:45 p.m. You can find out more or sign up for the tastings by emailing info@kristoffarms.com. (That’s what a tasting looks like; our son Geoffrey is beside us.)

Our first “Pinot & Perspective” wine tastings of the Spring!

• Saturday, March 14 at 1:30 p.m.

• Saturday, March 14 at 2:45 p.m.

We’ll pour a flight of Kristof wines and ciders, share a bit of farm and family story, and leave plenty of time for thoughtful (and occasionally spirited) conversation. A $50 fee covers the wine, cider and snacks, and it can be applied to any purchase of six or more bottles or to a new membership in the Kristof Farms wine club or cider club. We have a few spots left to please reserve by emailing info@KristofFarms.com. And if we run out of spaces, priority will go to members of the wine club or cider club.

Email info@kristoffarms.com to reserve your spot.

We just bottled our 2025 Rosé from Pinot Noir. Here’s a behind-the-scenes glimpse of what the bottling and labeling assembly line looks like at Carlton Winemakers Studio, where the great Anthony King makes our wine:

And remember that while our farm is not open to the public most of the time, the Winemakers Studio is, every day from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. You can buy our wines there and also taste some other excellent wines from the area.

Our mountain lions want to say hi! Here’s one passing by our wildlife camera, and then it pauses to investigate a paired camera. And then after that, the same cougar going in the other direction, showing just what a large, sleek cat it is:

Finally, a farewell from Chief Security Officer Connie Kristof, who keeps us safe from hungry mountain lions. For what it’s worth, Connie supports getting together with friends and drinking, but only in moderation. She scoffs at the idea that chocolate is healthy, but she believes Pinot Noir pairs very well with gophers.